Most cabinet problems are smaller than they look. A door that hangs crooked is often a hinge adjustment, a drawer that sticks may need a new glide, and a chip in a laminate counter can sometimes be repaired rather than replaced. The harder question is whether to repair, reface, or start over, and that depends on the condition of the boxes behind the doors.
Call now
- A wall cabinet has pulled away from the wall or is hanging by one fastener.
- A sink has dropped or the counter has cracked through around it, and water is getting below.
- Water is leaking under the sink and the cabinet floor is soft or swollen.
Can usually wait
- One cabinet door hangs crooked but still closes.
- A drawer jumps its track or needs a lift to close.
- A chip or burn mark on a counter that is not near a seam or the sink.
Have this ready
- Photos of the door, hinge, drawer glide, and any brand stamp inside the cabinet.
- The counter material and whether the damage is at an edge, a seam, or the sink.
- Whether you are considering a repair, a reface, or a replacement.
What the desk hears most
- 01
A door that hangs crooked
European cup hinges have adjustment screws in three directions, and a door that dropped often needs a quarter turn rather than a new hinge. If the screw holes are stripped or the frame is cracked, the fix is a repair to the box, not the door.
- 02
A drawer that will not stay on track
Wood runners wear, metal glides bend, and particleboard sides can crumble around the screws. A new glide is a small job if the box is sound; a drawer that has been overloaded for years may need the bottom and back repaired too.
- 03
A chip in the counter
Laminate chips can sometimes be filled and blended; stone chips are usually repaired with a color-matched epoxy. A crack that runs through the counter, or a chip at the sink edge, is a different matter because water can get into the substrate.
- 04
A seam that has opened
Seams in laminate and solid-surface counters can lift when the cabinet below moves or water gets in. Clean and dry the area first, because a repair over moisture will fail again. A stone seam that has opened may need a fabricator.
- 05
Refacing instead of replacing
If the boxes are solid and the layout works, new doors, drawer fronts, and veneer can change the room without a full tear-out. The trade-off is that refacing hides the box, so any water damage or sagging shelves should be fixed first.
Call now or wait?
The honest answer depends on whether the problem is contained and whether the house is safe. Use these two lists as a starting point, then call and describe the specifics.
Call now
- A cabinet pulling off the wallKeep weight out of it and open the doors as little as possible. A cabinet that has separated from the wall can fall; describe how wide the gap is and whether the wall is drywall or plaster.
- A dropped sink or a counter cracked at the sinkStop using the sink if water is getting under the counter. Shut off the supply valves if you can reach them, and put a bucket below.
- Water damage under the sinkA soft cabinet floor and a musty smell mean the leak has been running for a while. Fix the plumbing source before the cabinet is repaired or replaced.
- A counter crack that is spreadingA crack that grows with weight or temperature can fail suddenly. Keep heavy items off it and have it looked at before it is used as a work surface again.
Can usually wait
- A single crooked doorIf it closes and the hinge is tight, it can wait. A door that rubs the frame or will not stay closed is more annoying than urgent.
- A drawer that needs a nudgeA sticky drawer is usually a worn glide or an overloaded box. Take some weight out and avoid forcing it so the track does not bend.
- A small chip at the counter edgeA chip that is not near water can wait. Cover it with a cutting board if it catches cloth, and keep the edge out of chopping duty.
- Dated doors and hardwareA cosmetic update can be planned on a normal schedule. Measure the doors and drawer fronts before you shop so the sizes are right.
Before you dial: the 60-second prep
You do not need a diagnosis. You need enough detail for the desk to route the call and for the pro to arrive with the right questions.
- Empty the cabinets that will be worked on and clear the counter.
- Count the doors and drawers and note any that are different sizes.
- Photograph the hinge, the glide, and any label or brand stamp.
- Note the counter material, thickness, and where the damage sits.
- Check for soft wood or swelling at the bottom of the sink cabinet.
- Decide whether you want a repair, a reface, or a replacement.
What happens when you call
You describe the cabinet or counter
The desk asks what failed, how old the kitchen is, and whether the damage is cosmetic or letting water in. A photo of the hinge or counter edge saves time.
The desk routes the call
Your location and the type of work determine which independent local cabinet or countertop professional receives the call.
You confirm the visit
The professional explains whether the fix is a repair, a reface, or a replacement, and what the visit includes before work begins.
What changes the job here
Housing age, weather, water, soil, and foundation type all change how a cabinets & countertops problem behaves. These are the local factors worth mentioning on the call.
Humidity and wood movement
In coastal and humid regions, wood doors and frames move with the seasons and hinges work loose. Local installers leave a little more clearance and choose hardware that tolerates the swing.
Dry climates and counter seams
In dry regions, wood cabinets can shrink away from the wall and stone counters can chip at a tight seam. A repair that accounts for movement lasts longer than one that simply fills the gap.
Older kitchens with odd sizes
Houses built before the 1960s rarely have standard cabinet dimensions, and a stock door will not fit an opening that was built by hand. Local shops that measure on site can match the existing boxes.
Basement and slab moisture
Cabinets in a basement or over a slab can wick moisture through the toe kick. If the floor feels damp, the repair should start with a moisture barrier, not a new door.
Questions worth asking the pro
Ask before you authorize work. A good professional will answer plainly, including the parts that are still uncertain.
- Is the box sound enough to reface, or does it need replacement?
- Can this hinge or glide be adjusted, or does it need a new part?
- How will you match the door style and finish?
- What is behind the wall where the cabinet is pulling away?
- Will the counter need to come out for this repair?
- How long should the kitchen stay unloaded after the work?