Fence calls usually come in two flavors: something broke, or something is missing. A storm takes out a section, a gate starts dragging, a dog finds the loose picket. Or the yard has no privacy and the property line needs a decision. Both are easier to price when you know the length, the material, the ground, and what the fence is supposed to do.
Call now
- A fence or gate is down across a walkway, driveway, or shared access.
- A post has pulled out and the panels are under tension or leaning into a path.
- A pool barrier has a gap, a broken latch, or a gate that will not self-close.
Can usually wait
- One picket is missing or a board is loose on a solid run.
- A gate drags but still latches.
- The fence leans slightly, but the posts are firm and the line is intact.
Have this ready
- Linear feet and the number of corners, gates, and ends.
- The material you have or want: wood, vinyl, chain link, aluminum, or composite.
- Photos of the damage and of where the fence meets the property line.
What the desk hears most
- 01
Storm damage and leaning runs
Saturated soil lets a post move before the wood breaks. Wind catches a panel and pulls the whole line. A run that leans after a storm may need one post reset or several, depending on how the rails and panels took the load.
- 02
A gate that will not close
A gate is a hinge, a latch, and a post, and any one of them can cause the drag. Winter swelling, a loose hinge screw, or a post that has moved an inch will all look the same at the latch. Fix the cause before trimming the gate.
- 03
Rot at the post base
The bottom of a post lives in soil, sprinkler spray, and leaf litter. Probe it with a screwdriver instead of kicking it. A post that is soft below grade cannot be saved with a new cap or a coat of stain.
- 04
A new fence line
The line is the hard part, not the panels. A survey or property pins settle the boundary, and local setbacks or HOA rules may decide the height and placement. Mark the corners before anyone digs.
- 05
A barrier that has to pass inspection
Pool fencing has specific height, spacing, and self-closing rules, and a gate that props open can fail. If the fence is there for safety, the hardware and the gaps matter as much as the panels.
Call now or wait?
The honest answer depends on whether the problem is contained and whether the house is safe. Use these two lists as a starting point, then call and describe the specifics.
Call now
- A fence down across accessMove what you can safely lift and keep the rest clear. If a power line is tangled in the fence, stay away and call the utility or 911; do not try to move the fence.
- A post under tensionKeep people and pets away from a panel that is bowed or springy. A post that has pulled partway out can release suddenly when the rails are cut.
- A gap in a pool barrierKeep children out of the pool area until the barrier is restored. A temporary panel is not a substitute for a self-closing gate and a secure latch.
- A gate hanging over a walkRemove the gate or tie it open until it can be repaired. A gate that drops is heavy and unpredictable, especially in wind.
Can usually wait
- A missing picket in a back runPrivacy and appearance, not immediate safety, if the rest of the run is solid. Measure the picket and note the profile so a replacement can be matched.
- A slight lean with firm postsWatch it after the next rain. A fence that moves once and stops may just need a post reset; one that keeps moving needs the cause found.
- A sticky gateAdjust it before the latch wears or the hinge tears out. A gate that needs a shoulder to close is already telling you the post or hinge has moved.
- Fading stain or paintCosmetic, but a failing finish lets water into the wood. Clean, dry, and recoat before the surface starts to crack.
Before you dial: the 60-second prep
You do not need a diagnosis. You need enough detail for the desk to route the call and for the pro to arrive with the right questions.
- Measure the run and count the gates and corners.
- Find the property pins or survey; do not assume the line.
- Photograph the damage and the post bases.
- Note sprinkler lines, septic components, and buried cable.
- Check HOA rules and local height limits before ordering material.
- Clear the work area and decide who will manage the pets.
What happens when you call
Length, material, and the weak point
The desk needs the run length, the fence material, and whether the posts or the panels are failing. Photos of the worst post and the gate latch narrow it down quickly.
A local fence crew for the job
A repair on a wood run, a new vinyl line, and a pool barrier call for different experience. Your call goes to an independent local fencing professional suited to the material and the purpose.
Line, depth, and access
Before the visit, ask who confirms the property line and who arranges utility marking. At the visit, the pro should explain post depth, setting method, and any charge for the estimate.
What changes the job here
Housing age, weather, water, soil, and foundation type all change how a fencing problem behaves. These are the local factors worth mentioning on the call.
Frost and post depth
In places with deep frost, a post set above the frost line will heave. Depth, a gravel base, and the right concrete collar matter more than the style of the cap. Ask how the posts will be set before the holes are dug.
Clay, rock, and drainage
Heavy clay holds water against a post, and rock can stop an auger in the first foot. Local crews know whether a hole needs a wider base, a drainage pocket, or a different setting method on your ground.
Wind and coastal salt
On exposed or coastal lots, wind load and corrosion decide the fasteners and the spacing. Vinyl can flex and crack in cold wind; wood needs real galvanized or stainless hardware. A fence built for calm inland air may not last.
Older urban lots
Shared fences, narrow side yards, and a line that has drifted over decades are common in older neighborhoods. A survey protects the neighbor relationship as much as the fence. Ask about access for a truck or a wheelbarrow before material arrives.
Questions worth asking the pro
Ask before you authorize work. A good professional will answer plainly, including the parts that are still uncertain.
- Will you locate utilities before digging?
- How deep will the posts go, and what are they set in?
- Who confirms the property line?
- Is this a repair or a new run?
- What happens to the old fence and the concrete footings?
- How does the gate hardware hold up over time?